HM-PUR 1 (HLW) Sauna Power Supply for Health Mate, Sun Spirit, and Thermal Life / High Tech Health
The HM-PUR 1 Series Power Supplies by PLH Products are used in Health Mate, Sun Spirit, and Thermal Life/High Tech Health branded saunas.
There are two versions of the HM-PUR 1 which, aside from the color, also have other subtle, but important differences that should be understood before you place your order to ensure that it's fully compatible with your sauna.
Determining the nature of your problem
Health Mate, Sun Spirit, and High-Tech Health / ThermalLife branded saunas all share the same control system in which the computer and temperature control system functionality is embedded within the keypads, and simply sends a trigger signal down to the power box turning the relays on and off.
It unfortunately seems to be a widely disseminated myth that the box and the keypads tend to fail together, or the failure of one will likely cause the failure of the other. This has no more basis in reality than to suggest that a faulty light switch would result in a failure of the bulb or the bulb being responsible for a failure of the light switch.
There are of course exceptions to every rule. You could have a failure of both under the following conditions:
1. If you experience a nearby lightning strike during an electrical storm or a significant surge from the power grid, both the keypads and the box could be compromised and would need to be replaced. The best indication in determining if this should be considered is if any other electronics in your home stopped working at the same time.
2. The keypads and the power box coincidently failed in relatively in a short succession of one another.
3. An extremely rare condition which we've seen only once can result in the voltage output of the power supply dramatically exceeds the acceptable range expected by the keypads. We've only ever seen this happen on one occasion.
Aside from that, it's our experience after having worked on several hundred Health Mate systems that it's extremely rare to see that a failure has occurred with both, and is most likely a problem with one or the other. If you're experiencing a problem with a sauna based on these control systems, then you can usually find out fairly quickly by following the steps below:
- Symptom: Clearly distinct scent of plastic or electrical burning, possible with partial or complete failure of the power supply.
- This is likely due to a fault with the power supply, the inlet (for those with a removable power cable), or the cabling an/or junction points between the power box.
- Symptom: No apparent power to the sauna / No unusual scent of plastic or electrical burning.
Solution: First check to see if the stereo powers up. If yes, then this is a pretty good indication that most, if not all of the power box is working correctly.
Of course it's relevant to also point out that if the stereo never worked, or hasn't worked for quite some time, then this test won't be conclusive and you should call us for other methods.
If the stereo fails, find the model number of the power box. If it's an HM-PUR 1, AP0024NANB, AP0025NANB, JL00NAN, or SYYT001, then you should check if the thermal breaker and the resettable fuse may have tripped on the front of the box. (The reset button for the thermal breaker may be covered by an easily removable twist-on cover). If your power box model number begins with either HMKV or 535-1 you should check the glass fuse located on the same side from which the power cable enters the box, and should be replaced which a fuse of the same value and retested.
If you're reasonably confident that the stereo was previously working, but now fails to work correctly, and none of the breakers are tripped (or the glass fuse hasn't burned out), then, then check to make sure you're getting power at the wall outlet. If your Health Mate sauna runs at 110 or 120 volts AC (which is most commonly the case for those in North America) then you can simply plug a lamp or any other device into the outlet to make sure you're getting power. The same holds true if you're in most other parts of the world, where the power standard is typically 220 to 240 Volts AC. Simply test the outlet with any other device. In the case where you might be living in North America, but you have your sauna running at 220 to 240 volts AC, it's best to have an electrician test the outlet for you, unless you're confident in doing it yourself. Misconfiguring your meter and placing the probes in the incorrect jacks of the meter can cause a shorted condition, and aside from destroying your meter, can result in bodily harm or injury or pose a risk of fire.
- Symptom:The time is clearly lit, but button presses either result in either no response at all, or hearing two or more beeps for every keypress, and either no functionality, limited functionality, or otherwise erratic or unintended response when pressing buttons on the keypads.
- Solution: This can be easily resolved with our keypad overlay kit.
- Symptom: You're hearing "phantom" beeps coming from the sauna, either during your sauna session or even when it's not in being used, e.g. in the middle of the night, or and random times when no one else is around, then this a keypad issue in almost every case, and the behavior is due to one or more of the buttons is shorting intermittently.
- Solution: This can be easily resolved with our keypad overlay kit.
- Symptom: The keypad display is much dimmer than usual, and pressing buttons causes it to get even dimmer, or instead of a beep, the keypads now emit a continuous tone. Beeps in response to button presses are very weak and anemic.
Solution: Fortunately this scenario is not very common, and is also a bit more more difficult to diagnose. The cause could be an issue with a short in the keypads, the power box, or even in the radio, or poor connectivity at the connectors or somewhere along the cable between the power box and the radio.
The two things that you can do to in this case are:
1. Unplug the power line that leads to the stereo and see if that improves the brightness on the LEDs on the keypad. If so, then there's likely a short somewhere in the electronics of the stereo, which should at that point just be replaced.
2. Check the cable connection between the keypads and the power box. Furthermore, you may even want to unplug the connector at both ends at reseat them, but if you choose to do so, do NOT pull the cable out by the wires as this will frequently cause one or more of the wires to break away from the connector resulting the need for a new assembly. Only pull it out at the connector.
In addition, you should also be careful to not pull the white shroud into which the cable is attached on the keypad side. If you're not paying close attention, or using pliers, it's not too difficult grab the shroud with the cable, and possibly damaging the keypad electronics. More elaborate instructions for removing and replacing the keypads can be found on the page of the keypad overlay kit.
After you've confirmed that the cable is firmly connected at both ends, and before remounting the keypad back into its normal location, go ahead and plug the sauna in and see if anything's changed. To do so, you only need to have the keypad connected that's mounted with the keypad electronics.
If this is an older four LED digit keypad, with electroluminescent backlighting (e.g. the feature that causes the keypad buttons to glow when a button is pressed), then be extra careful that you are only touching the keypad assembly at the edges of the keypad and not touching the electronics. This is because the circuit used to power the backlighting generates about 60 Volts AC, which is generally not lethal, but can be uncomfortable if you happen to touch certain parts of the PCB or related components while the backlighting is switched on.
At this point you'll find that thing are better, about the same, or worse. Regardless of whether things have improved or not, you should gently move the cable around and see if this causes any significant variance in the brightness of the red numeric readout of the LED display. If moving the cable around does cause varying brightness, then it probably is the cable. (There is the remote chance that it could also be a bad solder joint in the box or the keypad, but if get a significant of flickering while moving the cable, it's probably the cable.
- If neither of the two possible scenarios described above shed on the cause for this particular symptom, then it's likely to either be an issue with the keypad or the power box, but can't be conclusively determined without further testing that would be outside the scope of what can be covered here.
Should you still have questions of need further guidance to qualify the cause of your problem, feel free to call us for clarification or further guidance.
When to use a Red or Blue HM-PUR 1 vs a Yellow HM-PUR 1
Generally speaking, the Red HM-PUR 1 should only be used to replace another Red or Blue HM-PUR 1 - and it's the power supply that's been included in most of the Health Mate and High Tech Health / ThermaLife saunas by the aforementioned brands within the last few years.
There are two reasons that this version is not preferred for older saunas. First, it does not provide 12 volt power for the stereo through the circular connector. There are ways this can be dealt with however, either with a minor internal modification, or adding an additional 12 Volt DC adapter. The second consideration is that the circular connector is located on the front face of the power supply, rather than the top of the box as was the case with previous AP, JL, and SYYT series power supplies.
The primary benefit offered by the Red and Blue version HM-PUR 1 is the inclusion of three additional heater ports on the face of the box. While all versions of the HM-PUR 1 are designed to handle up to 4000 Watts, the extra connectors can help reduce the likelihood of overheating since the power is evenly distributed across a greater number of outlets, thereby providing more paths through which the current can flow. This can be particularly beneficial for larger (three to five person) saunas when more power is required for additional heaters.
Aside from these two differences, the Red (or Blue) HM-PUR 1 is functionally equivalent to the Yellow HM-PUR 1.
Yellow HM-PUR 1 "Direct" Upgrades
The Yellow HM-PUR 1 is a direct upgrade path for the following older power supply models: AP0024NANB, AP0025NANB, JL00NAN, or SYYT001. This means that you can remove your older power supply and simply replace it with a Yellow HM-PUR 1, and everything should function as it did with your original power supply. (Those upgrading from a JL00NAN should note that the HM-PUR 1 does *not* include the power port for the TV feature, but this is easily solved with an additional cable. Please contact us when placing your order so we can address the issue.)
When upgrading from one of the aforementioned power supplies to the Yellow HM-PUR 1, it's important to note that the dimensions of the HM-PUR 1 power supplies and placement of the mounting tabs around the perimeter of the box were thoughtfully considered to allow the new box to be easily installed in the same location as your original AP, JL, or SYYT series power supply.
There is one caveat however. The newer power supplies are physically thicker than the original in order to provide more room inside the power supply. The extra space within the enclosure allows for improved heat dissipation and better overall reliability of the newer power supplies. The only downside is that the extra thickness causes the HM-PUR-1 to protrude out from the wall of most saunas by about one to two inches after installation preventing the original wood cover from fitting as it used to.
Most don't have a problem with the replacement power supply being exposed inside the sauna. Those who prefer that it be enclosed can easily assemble a three sided enclosure from a few pieces of wood cut to size at a local hardware store, and then nailed or glued together.
Upgrading older 535-series and HMKV power supplies with the Yellow HM-PUR 1
With the appropriate adapter cables, the Yellow HM-PUR 1 can also be used to upgrade the following models: 535-1A-PS120/xx, 535-1A-PS240/xx, HMKV-1, HMKV-4, and HMKV-11.
Selecting the correct power cable
With one exception, all upgrades from a 535-1A or HMKV series power supply will also require the addition of an HM-PUR 1 compatible power cable that matches the electrical standards of your original power box. The only model that does not require a new power cable is the HMKV-11, as the power cable that originally shipped with saunas using this box is also compatible with the HM-PUR 1.
Of the remaining power supplies, the easiest way to determine which cable you need is to simply look at the end of the cable on your original power supply.
If you're facing the plug at the end of the power cable (and not the wall socket), and you're holding the cable with the ground pin oriented toward the floor, then you should be able to match what you see with one of following based on the orientation of the blades toward the top.
When both blades are arranged vertically, the plug will fit a standard 15 Amp 110-120 volt socket. This is most common on 1-2 person infrared saunas rated at no more than 1800 watts.
When the left blade is vertical and the right blade is horizontal, the plug is meant to fit a 20 Amp 110-120 volt socket. This is found on medium sized infrared saunas ranging from 1800 to 2400 watts.
When both blades are horizontal, the plug is meant to fit a 15 Amp 220-250 volt socket. This is found on large infrared saunas rated between 2400 and 3750 watts.
When the left blade is horizontal and the right blade is vertical, the plug is meant to fit a 20 Amp 220-250 volt socket. This is intended for the largest infrared saunas rated at between 3600 and 5000 watts.
IMPORTANT - If you are upgrading a sauna with HMKV series equipment, it is important that you either read and fully understand the topics presented below. If you remain uncertain about what you need, or please call us for a quick consultation and we will be happy to help.
If you're upgrading your power supply from an HMKV-1, HMKV-4, or HMKV-11, then you will most likely have an HMKV-02 keypad (but not always).
The original configuration of the five pin data cable from an HMKV power supply to an HMKV-02 keypad is considered "straight though". This means that pin 1 on one side of the cable goes to pin 1 on the other side, and pin 2 goes to pin 2, and so on though to pin 5.
Similarly, the standard data cable for systems that include a later non-HMKV power supply and a later non-HMKV keypad are similarly connected "straight through". (This includes all keypads with four LED digits, as well as all AS Series keypads).
What's important to understand is that directly plugging HMKV-series keypads into a newer non-HMKV power supply with a "straight through" cable will immediately and irrevocable destroy the keypad.
Similarly, plugging a newer non-HMKV keypad to an older HMKV-series power supply using the standard "straight through" cable will also immediately and irrevocably destroy the keypads... every time.
The root cause of this problem is due to the fact that the 12 volt and the Ground lines carried across the data cable between the power box and the keypads were reversed from their original pin positions on all of the equipment made after the HMKV series.
Our guess is that this was not intended, and was more likely an error made by whatever contract design firm or manufacturer was handling the first run of keypads and/or power supplies that immediately followed the HMKV series, and it was too late to revert back once the issue was discovered.
There's no problem using a newer power supply with newer keypads, simply because the pin layout is consistent at both ends.
It's when an older HMKV power supply is on one side and a newer keypad is on the other, or a newer power supply (such as the HM-PUR series) is connected to an older HMKV-02 keypad that this is a problem...
Unless, that is... a crossover cable is installed at either end of the data cable that "un-reverses" the 12 Volt line and the Ground Line.
Such crossover cables are not entirely uncommon, and it's quite possible that you may already have one in your sauna. This might be the case if...
A) Your sauna originally included HMKV-series equipment and at some point was upgraded with a newer non-HMKV power supply as a warranty replacement while continuing to use your original HMKV-series keypads. If this is the case, then you should have also have also received a newer data cable with a circular connector plugs into the power box. The crossover cable would be attached on the keypad side of this cable. If you are only upgrading the power box, you don't need any additional cabling. Simply leave both the existing data cable and crossover cable in place, as they should both used as they are with the new power box. It's important however to remember that the crossover cable is present and being used in your sauna. It should be removed if (and only if) you also upgrade (either now or at some later date) to newer non-HMKV keypads.
B) Your sauna originally included HMKV-series equipment and at some point was upgraded to newer non-HMKV keypads as a warranty replacement while continuing to use your original power supply. If this is the case, the crossover cable could have been placed at either side of the 5-pin data cable. You'll need to order the standard cable with the new Yellow HM-PUR 1, and remove the crossover cable (along with the original HMKV data cable) from your current system, as neither will by needed moving forward.
C) Your sauna was originally purchased with a hybrid configuration that included an HMKV-11 power supply and the newer non-HMKV Green-face keypads. If this is the case, you will find both a data cable as well as a the 2 to 3 inch crossover extension cable between the power box and the keypads. Like scenario B, both should be removed and you should order a standard data cable with the Yellow HM-PUR 1 Power Box.
If any of the above are true with regard to your sauna's configuration, then you should be aware that your system already has a crossover cable that's currently installed, and depending on the scenario which applies to you, determine whether it should remain in place or be removed.
The remaining two scenarios are the most likely, but still need careful consideration to determine if a crossover cable us necessary:
D) If your sauna currently includes only HMKV equipment, (meaning an HMKV 1, HMKV 4, or HMKV 11 power box and HMKV-02 keypads), and you intend on continuing to use your HMKV keypads, then you'll need to order both the standard HM-PUR 1 standard data cable *and* a crossover cable with your new HM-PUR 1 power supply.
E) If your sauna currently includes only HMKV equipment and you are replacing both the power supply *and* keypads
at the same time, then you'll need to order just the standard HM-PUR 1 data cable. A crossover cable should *not* be used.
HM-PUR 1 Power Boxes sold through Infrared Sauna Repair carry a five year warranty, parts and labor, honored exclusively though Infrared Sauna Repair.